The Best Soils for Monstera – Picks from Bob Vila

Monsteras are the kind of houseplants that make you feel like you’ve got your life togetherright up until you water them,
they glare at you (with those dramatic, split leaves), and then they drop a yellow leaf like it’s a strongly worded email.
If that sounds familiar, here’s the good news: a lot of “moody Monstera” problems start in the potspecifically, in the soil.

Monstera deliciosa (a.k.a. the Swiss cheese plant) doesn’t want “dirt.” It wants an airy, well-draining, slightly moisture-retentive
mix that keeps roots dampbut never swampy. Think “fluffy chocolate cake,” not “wet cement.”
This guide breaks down what makes a great Monstera soil, how to tweak bagged mixes, and how Bob Vila’s top picks stack up in real-life
indoor conditionswhere sunlight is inconsistent and your watering schedule is… aspirational.

What Monstera Roots Actually Want (And Why Regular Dirt Isn’t It)

In the wild, Monstera grows in warm, humid regions and behaves like a climber that’s happy to grab a tree and head upward.
That lifestyle matters: roots aren’t designed to sit in heavy, compacted muck with no air flow. In a pot, the fastest way to offend a Monstera
is to trap its roots in a dense mix that holds water too long. Roots need oxygen, and soggy soil pushes air out of the pore spaces.
No oxygen = stressed roots = root rot risk.

The “Goldilocks” trio: drainage, aeration, moisture retention

• Drainage: Excess water must leave the pot quicklyespecially after a thorough watering.
• Aeration: Roots need air pockets throughout the mix, not just near the top.
• Moisture retention: The mix should hold some water so roots don’t dry out in 18 minutes flat.

Most high-quality container mixes are “soilless,” meaning they’re built from ingredients like peat moss or coco coir (for moisture),
plus perlite/vermiculite/bark (for structure and air). They’re typically lightweight, relatively clean, and less likely to bring outdoor pests
and pathogens into your living room. Translation: fewer creepy-crawlies and fewer surprise fungal dramas.

Soil pH: slightly acidic is your Monstera’s comfort zone

Monsteras generally do best in slightly acidic to near-neutral conditions. If you’re not testing pH (no shame), the practical takeaway is:
avoid mixes that trend alkaline, and stick to reputable indoor/container blends. Many well-formulated potting mixes land in a range that works
well for tropical foliage plants.

Ingredients That Make (or Break) Monstera Soil

A great Monstera mix isn’t one magical bagit’s a recipe concept. Here’s what the common ingredients do, how they help, and when they backfire.

Peat moss: moisture manager with a slightly acidic vibe

Sphagnum peat moss is a classic base ingredient in potting mixes because it holds water and helps create a fluffy structure. It’s often paired
with lime and fertilizer in commercial products to balance acidity and nutrition. If you’re in a dry home (heat running, low humidity), peat-based
mixes can be helpfuljust don’t let peat be the whole story, or you’ll end up with a dense, water-holding blob.

Coco coir: peat’s popular cousin (with a quick rinse note)

Coco coir holds moisture while staying more fibrous and less compacting than some peat-heavy mixes. It’s a great option for airy texture,
and it’s common in indoor potting products. One practical tip from horticulture educators: if you’re using raw coir as a DIY ingredient,
rinsing can help reduce potential salinity issues from processing. For bagged, branded mixes, this is usually less of a “big deal,” but it’s still
nice to know why some plants get cranky after a repot.

Perlite: tiny white popcorn that keeps roots breathing

Perlite is a lightweight volcanic material that increases air space and helps the mix drain faster. If your Monstera’s soil stays wet for days,
perlite is often the simplest fix: add it to a base mix to prevent compaction and improve oxygen flow.

Vermiculite: water-holding helper (use with intention)

Vermiculite holds water and nutrients well, which can be useful for plants that dislike drying out. But if you already live in a humid environment
or you tend to water “just because,” too much vermiculite can keep the mix wetter than a Monstera prefers. It’s not the villainit’s just powerful.

Bark, pine fines, and “orchid mix” chunks: structure, airflow, and faster drying

Bark-based ingredients (including pine fines and orchid bark) create chunky structure and air channels, helping the mix breathe and dry more evenly.
If you want that trendy “aroid mix” feelspringy, chunky, hard to overwaterbark is your friend.
Bonus: it helps prevent the dreaded “top looks dry, bottom is a swamp” problem because water moves through more predictably.

Compost and castings: nutrition, microbes, and the “don’t overdo it” rule

Compost and worm castings can add nutrients and beneficial biology, but too much can make the mix heavy and moisture-retentive.
For Monsteras indoors, a little compost in a balanced mix can be greatespecially if you’re not fertilizing aggressively. But if your home is cool,
low-light, or you water often, keep compost content moderate so the pot doesn’t stay wet forever.

Wetting agents and fertilizers: helpful, but not a substitute for structure

Some bagged mixes include wetting agents to help dry media absorb water more easily (useful when peat-based mixes get hydrophobic).
Many also include slow-release fertilizer. That’s convenient, but remember: fertilizer doesn’t fix airflow. A nutrient-rich swamp is still a swamp.

Bob Vila’s Picks: What Stands Out (and How to Use Them Like a Pro)

Bob Vila’s roundup highlights mixes that balance drainage, moisture retention, and ingredients that suit Monstera’s preferences.
Here’s what each pick is bringing to the potand how to tweak it based on your home conditions.

Best Overall: FoxFarm Ocean Forest (nutrient-rich, airywatch moisture in low light)

This mix is known for a light, aerated texture and a nutrient-forward ingredient list. It includes organic components like peat moss and forest humus,
plus amendments (like castings and meals) that support growth. It can be a strong choice if your Monstera gets bright indirect light and grows actively.

Pro move: If you’re in a low-light room or your plant is a slow drinker, “light and aerated” can still hold more moisture than you want.
Mix in extra perlite and chunky bark to speed drying and increase airflow.

Runner-Up: Burpee GardenCoir (simple, airy baseneeds nutrition and structure support)

GardenCoir is basically coconut coirlightweight, resistant to compaction, and great at holding moisture without turning to sludge.
As a base, it’s fantastic. As a complete Monstera potting solution, it needs help: coir alone doesn’t provide long-term nutrients,
and it benefits from added chunky structure.

Pro move: Treat coir like the “cake layer,” then add “texture.”
Combine it with perlite/pumice and bark, and plan to fertilize during the growing season.

Best Bang for the Buck: Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix (easy starter mixupgrade it for aroids)

This is a common indoor potting mix option that includes ingredients like peat/coir and perlite, plus fertilizer and a wetting agent.
It’s convenient, widely available, and works well as a base for many houseplantsespecially beginners who want fewer moving parts.

Pro move: For Monsteras, make it “aroid-friendly” by adding bark and a little extra perlite.
If fungus gnats show up, it’s not a moral failure. It’s a moisture + organic media + indoor environment combo.
Let the top couple inches dry a bit more between waterings, and consider topping with a chunkier layer (bark) to reduce that constantly damp surface.

Best Organic: Burpee Organic Premium Potting Mix (balanced ingredientsscreen out the big bits if needed)

This organic-leaning mix typically blends coco coir, compost, perlite, and organic fertilizer sources.
That combo can support healthy leaf and root development without synthetic inputs, which appeals to gardeners who like to keep things “clean and simple.”

Pro move: If you open the bag and find oversized sticks, don’t panic.
Pick out the huge chunks (or run it through a basic garden sieve) and then add bark/perlite as needed to dial in the texture you want.

Also Consider: Miracle-Gro Potting Mix (outdoor-leaning mixhandy if your Monstera summers outside)

If you move your Monstera to a covered patio or porch during warm months, an outdoor-oriented potting mix can make sense.
Outdoor pots dry faster due to heat and airflow, so a mix that retains moisture reasonably well can be an advantage.
Just make sure the pot drains well, and don’t let outdoor rain turn your container into a tiny lake.

DIY “Aroid Mix” Recipes That Actually Work Indoors

You don’t need a laboratory, a scale, and a motivational playlist called “SOIL ERA.” You need a reliable base and a way to add air.
Many extension educators recommend simple formulas built around peat/coir plus perlite (and sometimes bark/sand) to keep mixes porous and usable in containers.
Here are a few practical blends that hit Monstera’s sweet spot.

Recipe 1: The easy upgrade (for any decent bagged indoor potting mix)

• 2 parts indoor potting mix (peat/coir-based)
• 1 part orchid bark or pine bark fines
• 1 part perlite (or pumice)

This is the simplest “make it Monstera-friendly” approach. It increases airflow and helps water move through the pot more evenly.
If your home is very dry, reduce bark slightly. If your home is humid or dim, increase bark/perlite slightly.

Recipe 2: The chunky aroid blend (for heavy waterers and fast growers)

• 2 parts coco coir or peat-based mix
• 2 parts orchid bark
• 1 part perlite
• Optional: a small handful of compost or worm castings for nutrition

This dries faster, breathes better, and is more forgiving if you water generously. It’s also great for Monsteras in bright indirect light that are actively
pushing new leaves.

Recipe 3: The “my Monstera lives in low light” blend

• 2 parts bark-based mix (orchid bark + a little potting mix)
• 1 part potting mix
• 1 part perlite

In low light, evaporation slows. This recipe helps prevent prolonged wetness around roots.
Pair it with careful watering (soak thoroughly, then wait until the mix is partly dry).

How to Tell Your Monstera’s Soil Is Wrong (And What to Do About It)

Red flags your mix is holding too much water

• Soil stays wet for many days after watering
• Musty smell from the pot
• Yellowing leaves that start near the bottom
• Soft stems near the soil line
• Fungus gnats having the time of their lives

Fix it: Increase aeration. Add perlite and bark, or repot into a chunkier mix. Also check the container: drainage holes matter,
and oversized pots stay wet longer because there’s more soil holding water than the plant can use.

Red flags your mix is drying too fast

• Leaves droop and perk up quickly after watering
• Soil pulls away from the pot edges and becomes hard to re-wet
• Crispy leaf tips (especially in dry air)

Fix it: Increase moisture retention slightly: add more coir/peat-based mix, reduce bark a bit, and keep humidity in mind.
Also re-wet hydrophobic mixes slowlyworking water in gradually can help dry media absorb moisture again.

Salt buildup: the silent drama

Over time, minerals from fertilizer and tap water can accumulate in container soil. If you see crusty deposits on the surface or pot rim,
or your plant seems unhappy despite “doing everything right,” consider flushing the soil occasionally (watering thoroughly so excess drains out)
and refreshing the potting mix periodically.

Repotting and Soil Refresh: A Practical, Not-Scary Checklist

• Size up modestly: Choose a pot about 1–2 inches wider than the current one (going too big keeps soil wet too long).
• Use drainage holes: Non-negotiable for Monsteras unless you enjoy guessing games with root rot.
• Don’t bury the crown: Keep the plant at the same soil level it had before.
• Water in: After repotting, water thoroughly so the mix settles around roots, then let it begin drying as normal.
• Support matters: A moss pole or stake helps Monsteras climb and can improve leaf size and growth habit over time.

Quick FAQs

Can I use cactus/succulent soil for Monstera?

Sometimesmostly as an ingredient, not the whole solution. Cactus mixes can drain very fast, which is great if you overwater,
but Monsteras still like consistent moisture. Blending cactus mix with a moisture-retentive base (coir/peat mix) often works better than going 100% cactus soil.

Is orchid mix enough by itself?

Orchid mixes are usually very chunky and quick-draining. Monsteras can enjoy some of that chunk, but most do better with a blend that holds
more moisture and nutrients than a pure orchid medium.

Do I need charcoal?

Not required. Charcoal can help with structure and may reduce odors in some situations, but it’s optional. If you already have a well-draining, airy mix,
charcoal is more “nice accessory” than “must-have.”

Conclusion: The Best Soil Is the One You Can Water Correctly

If you remember one thing, make it this: a Monstera-friendly soil is airy and well-draining, but it still holds enough moisture to keep roots comfortable.
Bob Vila’s picks highlight reliable bagged optionsespecially as starting pointswhile DIY add-ins like bark and perlite let you customize the mix to your home.
Bright room? You can handle richer mixes. Low light or humid space? Go chunkier and faster-draining.

Get the structure right, and suddenly your Monstera stops acting like a reality show contestant and starts behaving like a plant:
steady growth, happier leaves, fewer mysteries.

Experience Notes: Real-World Monstera Soil Wins (and Faceplants)

The internet loves “the perfect aroid mix,” but real life has variables: winter heating, forgetful watering, dim apartments, and that one friend who
waters everyone’s plants out of kindness (and chaos). Below are experience-based patterns reported by growers and houseplant folks again and again
the kind of lessons you learn not from a label, but from staring at a leaf at 11 p.m. wondering what you did wrong.

Scenario 1: The low-light living room Monstera

In bright indirect light, Monsteras use water faster and soil dries at a reasonable pace. In low light, the same mix can stay wet much longer.
This is where many people accidentally “overwater” even when they’re watering on a normal schedulebecause the plant simply isn’t drinking as much.
The best fix usually isn’t watering less forever; it’s making the mix breathe more.
Growers often find that adding chunky bark and extra perlite makes a dramatic difference in low-light rooms. The plant gets oxygen at the roots,
the soil dries more evenly, and that faint “wet basement” vibe disappears. Pair it with a pot that has real drainage and suddenly the Monstera
stops punishing you with yellow leaves.

Scenario 2: The “I water when I’m stressed” plant parent

Some people journal. Some people water. If you’re in the second group, you need a mix that forgives you.
Chunkier blends (bark + perlite + a decent base mix) are popular precisely because they reduce the odds of waterlogging.
The soil still holds moisture, but it’s harder to turn the pot into soup. People who switch from dense, peat-heavy mixes to chunkier aroid blends often
report fewer gnats, fewer mushy-stem scares, and a plant that keeps its older leaves longer instead of dropping them like it’s clearing storage space.

Scenario 3: The dry-air apartment (heat on, humidity off)

Dry indoor air changes everything: water evaporates faster from the top, but the lower pot can stay damp if the mix is compact.
This creates a sneaky trap: the top feels dry, so you water again, but the bottom is still wet. The result is inconsistent moisturedry on top, soggy below
and Monsteras hate mixed signals.
A balanced approach works best: keep a moisture-retentive base (coir/peat) but add enough bark/perlite so water moves through evenly.
Many growers also do better watering thoroughly and then waiting until the pot is partly drynot just “top looks dry.”
A simple trick people like is using a wooden chopstick as a moisture probe: if it comes out damp and dark from the lower half, the plant can wait.

Scenario 4: Fungus gnats show up and declare tenancy

Fungus gnats often appear when the top layer of soil stays consistently moist. That doesn’t mean your life is over, but it does mean your soil surface
is basically a tiny spa resort for gnat larvae.
Experience-based fixes tend to work best in combination: let the surface dry more between waterings, increase airflow in the mix (more perlite/bark),
and consider a top layer of chunkier material (like bark) to reduce that damp, fine-textured surface.
People also report better results when they avoid overpottingbecause big pots stay moist longer, and gnats prefer “wet real estate.”

Scenario 5: The “I want big leaves” era

If your goal is larger, more fenestrated leaves, soil is only part of the story (light, support, and nutrition matter a lot). But soil can unlock growth
by keeping roots healthy and active. Growers chasing larger leaves often prefer mixes that are airy and oxygen-rich, combined with a sturdy support pole.
In those setups, Monstera roots tend to stay more vigorous, and fertilizing becomes more effective because the root system can actually use it.
The big takeaway from experienced plant people is surprisingly unglamorous: consistent conditions beat “perfect” ingredients.
A solid base mix plus bark and perlitewatered well, drained well, and adjusted seasonallyusually outperforms an exotic ingredient shopping spree.

Bottom line: the “best soil” is the mix that matches your home and your habits.
If you’re a frequent waterer, go chunkier. If your air is dry, keep a bit more moisture retention. If your light is low, prioritize drainage and airflow.
Your Monstera isn’t asking for perfectionit’s asking you not to trap its roots in a long-term puddle.