How to Grow Persimmon Trees from Seed

Growing a persimmon tree from seed is the gardening equivalent of slow cooking: it takes time, patience, and a tiny bit of faith. But when you’re eating sweet, sunset-colored fruit from a tree you started from a discarded seed, it’s hard not to feel just a little bit smug.

Whether you’re dreaming of American persimmons (Diospyros virginiana) with their rich, caramel flavor, or Asian/Japanese persimmons (Diospyros kaki) that can be eaten crisp or jelly-soft, the basic process of growing persimmon trees from seed is similar. The trick is understanding what those seeds want: cold, time, warmth, and a deep spot for their famous taproot.

In this guide, we’ll walk through how to collect and prepare seeds, cold-stratify them, germinate them indoors, transplant seedlings, and care for young trees until they’re ready for their forever home in the yard. We’ll also sprinkle in practical examples, expert-backed tips, and a bonus “experience” section at the end with extra lessons learned the hard wayso you don’t have to.

Meet the Persimmon: American vs. Asian

Before you start scooping seeds out of fruit, it helps to know what you’re dealing with.

American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

American persimmons are native to the eastern United States and are surprisingly tough. Many cultivars tolerate cold down to USDA Hardiness Zone 4, thriving up through Zone 9. They’re often found in wood edges and old fence rows, with trees growing 35–60 feet tall and developing a long, strong taproot.

The fruit is smaller than most Asian persimmons but intensely flavoredthink dates, caramel, and pumpkin pie had a very successful collaboration. Many wild or seedling trees produce astringent fruit that only becomes sweet when fully soft and ripe.

Asian/Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki)

Asian persimmons, often labeled as “kaki,” are typically grown in warmer climates, doing best in Zones 7–10 or 8–10 depending on variety. They tend to be smaller trees than American persimmons and are popular in home orchards for their large, showy fruit and fall color. Some cultivars are non-astringent (like ‘Fuyu’) and can be eaten while still firm; others are astringent (like ‘Hachiya’) and must soften before eating.

Asian persimmons are commonly propagated by grafting, but you can still grow trees from seedjust realize they may not be identical to the parent and may take several years to fruit.

Step 1: Collecting and Preparing Persimmon Seeds

Choosing the right fruit

Start with fully ripe fruit. For astringent types, that usually means soft, jelly-like, and slightly wrinkled. For non-astringent types, make sure the fruit is fully colored and mature. Ripe fruit increases the odds that seeds are fully developed.

If you love the fruit from a particular tree, collecting seeds from that fruit at least gives you a good genetic starting pointeven though seed-grown trees won’t be exact clones.

Extracting and cleaning the seeds

1. Slice the fruit and scoop out the seeds.
2. Rinse them in cool water, gently rubbing off any remaining pulp.
3. Discard any obviously damaged, cracked, or flat seeds.

Clean seeds are less likely to mold during the long cold-stratification phase.

Soaking before stratification (optional but helpful)

Many growers like to soak persimmon seeds in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before cold treatment. This helps rehydrate the seed and can improve germination. Some specialty seed suppliers recommend a pre-soak followed by a cold period for best results.

Step 2: Cold-Stratifying Persimmon Seeds

Persimmon seeds come with a built-in “winter lock.” In nature, they fall in autumn, sit in cold soil all winter, and only sprout when spring warms the ground. To mimic this, we cold-stratify.

How long should you stratify?

University and grower sources commonly recommend 60–90 days of cold stratification for American persimmon, with some suggesting up to 90 days or even about 3 months for reliable germination. That cold period breaks dormancy and signals that winter has passed.

DIY fridge stratification setup

1. Prepare a moist medium. Use slightly damp (not soggy) peat moss, coco coir, vermiculite, or a paper towel. The goal is “wrung-out sponge” moisture.
2. Mix seeds with the medium. Place the seeds in the medium so they aren’t all touching each other.
3. Bag and label. Put everything in a zip-top plastic bag or small food container. Label with the date and “Persimmon seeds – start stratification.”
4. Refrigerate at 34–41°F (1–5°C). Use the fridge, not the freezer. Check occasionally to make sure the medium stays moist and to remove any moldy seeds.

If your seeds start to sprout in the fridge before your planned end date, congratulationsyou’ve got eager overachievers. You can carefully pot them up early.

Step 3: Germinating Persimmon Seeds Indoors

After 60–90 days of chilling, it’s time to wake them up.

Potting mix and containers

Persimmons grow a serious taproot early on, so depth matters. Many growers prefer deep tree pots, tall nursery containers, or at least 8–10 inch-deep pots to accommodate root growth.

Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mixsomething like a peat- or coco-based mix with added perlite. You can also blend in a small amount of compost for nutrients, but avoid heavy garden soil in containers.

Planting the seeds

1. Fill the container with potting mix and gently firm it.
2. Plant each seed about 0.5–1 inch deep.
3. Water thoroughly to settle the soil, then let excess water drain out.

Space seeds so that each pot holds one or, at most, a couple of seeds. Persimmon seedlings can be vigorous and don’t like having their roots disturbed later.

Temperature, light, and patience

Persimmon seeds generally germinate best in warm conditionsaround 70–85°F (21–29°C). A heat mat can help if your indoor space runs cool in late winter or early spring.

Germination can take 4–8 weeks or even longer. Keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Once seedlings emerge, move them to a bright window or under grow lights for 12–14 hours of light per day to prevent leggy growth.

Step 4: Potting Up and Caring for Seedlings

As seedlings grow, you’ll see that taproot ambition in action. Once roots reach the bottom or poke out of drainage holes, move them to a larger, deeper container.

• Handle by the root ball, not the stem. Persimmons dislike root disturbance, so try to transplant gently with as much soil intact as possible.
• Feed lightly. Use a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer once seedlings have a couple sets of true leaves. Over-fertilizing can cause soft, weak growth.
• Give them space and light. Good air circulation and strong light help prevent fungal issues.

Step 5: Planting Persimmon Seedlings Outdoors

Choosing the right planting site

Persimmon trees like:

• Full sun: At least 6–8 hours of direct light for best growth and fruiting.
• Well-drained soil: They tolerate a range of soil textures (clay, loam, sand), but the soil should drain well and not stay waterlogged.
• Slightly acidic to neutral pH: Many guides suggest a pH around 6.0–7.0, with some sources noting 6.0–6.5 as ideal.

American persimmons do well in Zones 4–9 and can tolerate a wide variety of conditions, including moist lowlands. Asian persimmons prefer Zones 7–10 and generally appreciate moderate winters and mild summers.

Hardening off your seedlings

Before planting outside, gradually acclimate your seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7–10 days:

1. Day 1–3: Place outside in bright shade for a few hours, then bring back in.
2. Day 4–7: Increase outdoor time and light exposure gradually.
3. Day 8–10: Leave them out all day in full sun, bringing them in only if nighttime temperatures are low.

Once the danger of frost has passed and seedlings are hardened off, they’re ready for the big move.

Planting in the ground

1. Dig a hole 2–4 times as wide as the root ball and slightly deeper, especially for young trees with a strong taproot.
2. Set the tree so it sits at the same depth it grew in the pot (or nursery row).
3. Backfill with the original soil (you don’t need a fancy soil cocktail), gently firming to remove air pockets.
4. Water deeply to settle the soil.
5. Mulch 2–4 inches deep around the tree, keeping mulch a few inches away from the trunk.

Step 6: Caring for Young Persimmon Trees

Watering

Persimmon trees can tolerate short dry spells, but young trees and trees carrying fruit perform best with consistent moisture. Regular watering during the first couple of years helps roots establish deeply and reduces stress.

Fertilizing

Most persimmon trees don’t need heavy fertilization. Many nurseries and extension guides warn that too much nitrogen can lead to lush leaves but fewer fruitsand can even cause fruit drop. A light application of balanced fertilizer in late winter or early spring is usually enough if growth seems weak or leaves are pale.

Pruning and shaping

Young persimmons typically need only basic shaping:

• Remove dead, crossing, or damaged branches.
• Encourage an open center or modified central leader structure for good light penetration.
• Do major pruning in late winter or early spring while trees are dormant.

Pests and diseases

One of the joys of persimmons is that they’re relatively low-maintenance compared to many fruit trees. American persimmons in particular tend to have few serious insect or disease problems in home settings. You may occasionally deal with leaf spots, borers, or wildlife (birds, deer, raccoons) that find your fruit irresistible.

How Long Until Your Seed-Grown Persimmon Fruits?

Here’s the part everyone wants to skip to: When do I get fruit?

• Seed-grown persimmon trees often take 5–10 years to reach bearing age, with 5–7 years being a commonly cited range in grower and orchard guides.
• American persimmons are often dioeciousmeaning individual trees are male or femaleso a seedling may turn out to be male and never produce fruit. It can still be used as a rootstock for grafting.
• Asian persimmons are often self-fruitful, but seedlings may vary in fruit quality and characteristics compared with the parent cultivar.

If fruit quality and reliability are top priorities, some growers start trees from seed and then graft known, high-quality cultivars onto those seedling rootstocks later. That way, you still get the satisfaction of starting from seed but with predictable fruit down the line.

Common Mistakes When Growing Persimmons from Seed

• Skipping cold stratification: Without a proper chilling period, germination is often low or extremely slow.
• Letting seeds dry out completely: Persimmon seeds don’t appreciate being dried rock-hard for long periods. Keeping them slightly moist before and during stratification improves success.
• Using shallow or tiny pots: Remember that taproot. It wants depth, not a cramped studio apartment.
• Overwatering seedlings: Soggy soil invites rot. Aim for evenly moist, well-draining conditions.
• Planting outdoors too early: Late spring frosts can damage tender new growth. Persimmons leaf out relatively late, but young trees are still vulnerable.

Real-World Experiences: What Gardeners Learn Growing Persimmons from Seed

Once you dig into forums, grower stories, and small-farm blogs, you start to see the same pattern: growing persimmon trees from seed is absolutely doablebut it’s a long game that rewards patience and good prep.

Many home growers report that their biggest “aha” moment was the cold-stratification process. At first, it sounds almost too fussy: label bags, keep seeds in the fridge for months, check for mold, adjust moisture. But the difference between “I got one seed to sprout after forever” and “half my seeds germinated nicely” often comes down to that 60–90-day chill window in moist medium. Growers who tried skipping it or rushing it frequently report weak or inconsistent germination, then eventually come back and say, “Okay, the fridge method really is worth it.”

Another common experience is underestimating the taproot. Gardeners who start persimmon seeds in shallow seed trays often describe that moment of guilt when they realize they’ve created a plate of tangled roots. Separating them can stunt the seedlings, and some simply fail to thrive afterward. By contrast, growers who start seeds in deep tree pots or narrow, tall containers almost always say they’d “never go back” to shallow flats. When that taproot has room to run straight down, the young tree tends to transplant with much less sulking.

Outdoor planting stories also have a theme: give persimmons time to settle in. Many people notice that their seedling trees grow slowly at first, then suddenly accelerate after a couple of years in the ground. That early phase is when the tree is busy building its root system rather than showing off above the soil. Gardeners who resist the urge to over-fertilize, instead focusing on consistent moisture and good mulching, usually report stronger, more resilient trees later on.

Perhaps the most bittersweet experience shared by persimmon enthusiasts is discovering that a carefully nurtured seedling turns out to be a male tree that never fruits. Instead of seeing this as a total loss, many growers learn to view male trees as valuable pollinizers or as excellent rootstocks for grafting. Some even turn the situation into an opportunity to experiment, grafting several different persimmon varieties onto a single male seedling and creating a “fruit salad tree” of sorts.

Then there’s the timeline. If you ask people who have stuck with seed-grown persimmons for 5, 7, or 10 years whether it was worth it, the answer is almost always yesespecially when the tree finally fruits. There’s a unique satisfaction in picking fruit from a tree you literally started from a seed you once considered throwing away. That first ripe persimmon becomes more than just a snack; it’s a milestone.

Finally, experienced growers consistently emphasize one big takeaway: start more seeds than you think you’ll need. Between germination variability, male/female ratios, and the occasional seedling that just doesn’t thrive, having a small “forest” of young trees to choose from and share with friends makes the process feel much more forgiving. Even if they don’t all end up in your yard, those little trees often find good homeswith the story attached that they came from the fruit you once enjoyed on your kitchen table.

Conclusion: From Seed to Sweet Persimmons

Growing persimmon trees from seed is a slow but deeply rewarding project. Once you understand the stepscollect ripe seed, cold-stratify for 60–90 days, give the taproot depth, plant in full sun with well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and be patient for several yearsthe process becomes surprisingly straightforward.

You might not get instant gratification, but you’ll get something better: a long-lived tree, adapted to your site, with a story that starts in your fridge and ends in your backyard with branches full of glowing orange fruit. If you’re the kind of gardener who enjoys the journey as much as the harvest, a persimmon grown from seed might be your perfect long-term project.