DIY Shiplap Accent Wall – Get The Look, Save Your Money!

Shiplap is the home-design equivalent of a crisp white T-shirt: it goes with everything, it makes you look put-together,
and once you try it, you start wondering if you should “just do one more wall.” The good news: you don’t need a TV crew,
a reclaimed barn, or a budget the size of a small moon to get that cozy, layered, “I definitely have my life together” vibe.
A DIY shiplap accent wall can be surprisingly affordableif you plan it smart, choose materials that match your space,
and avoid the classic mistakes (like trusting your floor to be level… it’s adorable that you think it is).

This guide walks you through how to get the shiplap look for less, from picking the right wall and material to installing
it with clean lines and a finish that doesn’t scream “my first weekend with power tools.” Quick note for teen DIYers:
if you’re under 18, involve a parent/guardian or experienced adult for any cutting, nailing, or tool useespecially saws
and nailers. You can do a lot of the layout, measuring, and finishing yourself, but safety is not the “optional trim package.”

What “Shiplap” Actually Means (and Why Everyone Wants It)

Traditional shiplap is a type of wooden board with overlapping edges (often rabbeted) designed to fit together tightly.
That overlap creates the signature horizontal lines and subtle shadow gaps that read as texturewithout becoming busy.
Today, “shiplap” also includes a bunch of look-alikes: tongue-and-groove planks, MDF planking, plywood strips,
peel-and-stick panels, and even wallpaper that fakes the grooves like it’s auditioning for a makeover show.

Real Shiplap vs. Faux Shiplap

• Real shiplap planks: Interlocking boards made for the job. Faster install, higher material cost.
• Faux shiplap (plywood strips): You rip smooth plywood into planks and leave consistent gaps. Lowest cost per square foot, more prep.
• MDF planking: Smooth, paint-friendly, budget-friendly. Not a fan of moisture unless you use moisture-rated products and seal well.
• Peel-and-stick shiplap-style panels: Easiest, tool-light, often pricier per square foot but great for renters or quick upgrades.

The “save your money” strategy is simple: spend where it shows (clean lines, crisp paint, thoughtful layout) and save
where it doesn’t (material hacks, efficient cuts, fewer specialty trims). Shiplap is mostly about alignment, spacing,
and finishingnot about how expensive your boards are.

Plan Your Accent Wall Like a Budget Genius

Pick the Right Wall (AKA: Choose the Wall That Wants to Be Chosen)

Your best candidate is usually the wall that already acts like a focal point: behind a bed, behind a sofa, a dining nook,
a hallway end wall, or a fireplace surround. If a wall has lots of doors, windows, weird jogs, and a thermostat, you can
still do itbut you’ll spend more time measuring and cutting (and more time discovering new emotions).

Measure Once, Then Measure Like You Don’t Trust Yourself (Because You Shouldn’t)

Measure the wall height and width and calculate square footage. Add 10% extra for wastemore if you’re doing fancy layouts
like vertical, diagonal, or chevron. If you’re using plywood sheets, convert square footage into sheet count
(a 4×8 sheet covers 32 square feet before waste).

Choose Your “Look”: Tight Fit or Nickel Gap

Some shiplap products interlock and create a consistent reveal automatically. With plywood-strip faux shiplap, you create
the reveal using spacersnickels are a popular DIY hack for a classic “nickel gap” look. If you want a subtler line, use
thinner spacers. The goal is consistent, not “close enough if you squint.”

Material Options That Balance Style, Cost, and Sanity

Option 1: Pre-Made Shiplap Planks (Fastest Install)

If you want the easiest path, buy ready-to-install shiplap boards. They’re designed to fit together with overlaps, and
many are pre-primed or pre-painted. That saves finishing time and helps reduce warping surprises. You’ll typically fasten
into studs and/or use construction adhesive depending on the product and wall condition.

Option 2: Plywood Strips (Best Budget “Wow” Factor)

This is the classic money-saver: buy smooth plywood, rip it into planks (commonly 6 inches wide, but you can go wider),
then install with consistent spacing. You’ll spend time on cutting and smoothing edges, but the final look can be seriously
high-end for a low-end price tag. If you don’t own tools, some stores can make straight cutspolicies vary.

Option 3: MDF Planking (Smooth Finish on a Budget)

MDF planks are very smooth and paint beautifullygreat for modern, clean shiplap looks. The tradeoff is moisture sensitivity.
If you’re considering bathrooms or laundry spaces, choose materials rated for higher humidity when possible and seal with
quality primer/paint. In damp areas, ventilation matters just as much as material choice.

Option 4: Peel-and-Stick Shiplap-Style Paneling (Minimal Tools)

Peel-and-stick panels can deliver the vibe without sawdust, nails, or brad nailers. They’re a solid option for renters,
dorm-style spaces, or anyone who wants “shiplap energy” without owning a stud finder. You’ll still want a clean, smooth
surface and careful alignment.

Tools and Supplies Checklist

Basic layout tools: tape measure, level, pencil, stud finder, chalk line (helpful), step stool.

Install supplies (varies by method): construction adhesive, finish nails/brads, nail set (if hand-nailing), wood filler, caulk, primer/paint.

Cutting tools: miter saw or circular saw for boards; table saw for ripping plywood strips (adult supervision required).

Safety gear: eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask/respirator for cutting and sanding.

If you’re a teen DIYer, focus your “hands-on” work on measuring, marking stud locations, planning the layout, filling holes,
caulking, and paintingthen recruit an adult for saws, nail guns, and anything that can remove fingers faster than it installs décor.

Step-by-Step: DIY Shiplap Accent Wall Installation

Step 1: Prep the Wall (Don’t Skip ThisFuture You Will Thank You)

• Remove outlet covers, switch plates, and anything mounted on the wall.
• If you’re keeping baseboards, decide whether shiplap will butt into them or if you’ll remove/reinstall for a flush look.
• Patch major dents and sand high spots so boards sit flat.
• Find and mark studs lightly in pencil (you’ll cover the evidence later).

Step 2: Acclimate Your Wood

Wood moves with humidity. Let boards adjust in the room before installation. Open packages, stack with spacers for airflow,
and give them time to settle. This reduces shifting gaps and surprise warping after you’ve lovingly painted everything.

Step 3: Paint or Prime Before Install (Optional but Often Smarter)

Pre-painting can be a game-changer, especially if you want the grooves to look crisp. Painting after install is totally fine,
but pre-painting helps you avoid “paint bridges” filling the gaps and turning your shiplap lines into one long smooth wall
(the exact opposite of the whole point). A practical compromise: prime/paint the boards, then do a final coat after install.

Step 4: Establish a Perfectly Level Starting Line

The first row is the boss of every row that follows. Use a level and/or chalk line to mark a reference line. Floors and ceilings
are often not levelso if you start crooked, your wall will gradually turn into an accidental optical illusion.

Step 5: Install the First Board (Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast)

Dry-fit the board first. If you’re using construction adhesive, apply it per manufacturer directions. Fasten the board securely,
aiming for studs when possible. If you’re using interlocking shiplap, pay attention to the overlap direction (commonly overlap
points downward as you work up). Avoid nailing through overlapping edges on products that specify not tothis can cause fit issues.

Step 6: Continue Up the Wall with Consistent Spacing

For interlocking boards, the profile helps maintain spacing. For faux shiplap, use spacers between planks to keep gaps consistent.
Work one row at a time, check level frequently, and don’t assume the wall is perfectly plumb. (Walls are rarely perfect. Houses are
basically charming rectangles with opinions.)

Step 7: Cut Cleanly Around Outlets and Obstacles

Measure carefully and cut openings for outlets, switches, and vents. Take your timethis is where “close enough” becomes
“why is there a mysterious gap shaped like regret?” If you’re not comfortable cutting around electrical boxes, have an experienced
adult handle this part.

Step 8: Finish Edges and Corners

You have a few clean finishing options:

• Trim frame: Add 1x trim around the accent wall like a picture frame.
• Inside corner returns: Wrap shiplap around a corner a few inches for a finished look.
• Caulk + paint: For painted walls, caulk small seams at corners for a seamless finish.

Step 9: Fill, Caulk, Sand, and Paint

Fill nail holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and caulk where needed (especially at trim joints and corners). Then paint.
For most interior shiplap accent walls, a durable interior wall paint in eggshell or satin is popularenough wipeability without
shining like a disco ball.

How to Save Money Without Making It Look Cheap

Use the “Pretty Side” Strategy

If you’re using plywood, choose a grade that has a smooth, paint-worthy face. You’re not building a spaceshipjust make sure
the visible side looks clean and won’t telegraph weird patches through paint.

Go Wider to Use Fewer Boards

Wider planks can mean fewer seams and fewer cuts. That can reduce labor (and your chances of slightly-off spacing).
Just keep proportions in mind: super narrow boards can start to resemble exterior siding, while wider boards feel more like
modern interior paneling.

Skip Specialty Trim (If Your Layout Is Clean)

A crisp, squared-off edge with careful caulking can look amazingno fancy molding required. If you love trim, use it as a
design choice, not as a cover-up plan.

Plan Cuts Like a Puzzle

Before you cut anything, map out where seams will land. Stagger seams so the wall looks intentional, not like you ran out
of boards and started improvising. Smart planning reduces waste and gives you a more professional look.

Design Ideas That Don’t Scream “2016 Farmhouse Trend”

Try Vertical Shiplap

Vertical shiplap can make ceilings feel taller and looks fresh in dining nooks, mudrooms, and bedrooms. It also plays nicely
with modern and coastal stylesless “barn chic,” more “clean architectural texture.”

Go Moody or Natural

Shiplap doesn’t have to be bright white. Soft grays, deep greens, warm neutrals, or a natural wood finish can look elevated,
especially when paired with simple artwork and modern hardware.

Do a Partial Wall

A half wall (or one-third wall) of shiplap can add texture without overpowering the room. It’s also cheaper, faster, and a great
way to test-drive the look if you’re commitment-shy.

Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid the DIY Hall of Fame… for the Wrong Reasons)

Starting Without a Level Line

This is the number-one “why does my wall look like it’s sliding downhill?” mistake. Establish a level reference and keep checking
as you go. Fixing a crooked start later is like trying to un-toast bread.

Forgetting Wood Movement

Wood expands and contracts. Acclimate boards, avoid forcing tight joints, and maintain consistent indoor humidity when you can.
In rooms prone to humidity, choose materials and finishes accordingly.

Rushing the Finish Work

The “pro” look mostly comes from the last 10%: filling holes neatly, sanding smooth, caulking clean lines, and painting carefully.
If you want the wall to look expensive, treat finishing like it’s the main eventbecause it is.

Quick FAQs

Do I need to remove drywall to install shiplap?

Usually no. Many interior shiplap installs go right over drywall using a combination of adhesive and fasteners, depending on the
product and wall condition. If the wall is uneven or damaged, prep and smoothing help.

Can I install shiplap in a bathroom?

You can, but be strategic. Bathrooms have humidity swings, so good ventilation matters. Choose appropriate material, prime and paint
thoroughly, and avoid areas with direct water exposure unless the product is designed for it.

Is peel-and-stick shiplap worth it?

If you want minimal tools and fast results, it can be. It’s often pricier per square foot than plywood strips, but it saves time,
mess, and tool needsgreat for rentals and quick refreshes.

DIY Experiences: What People Learn After the First Few Boards

Here’s the funny thing about a DIY shiplap accent wall: almost everyone starts the same wayoptimistic, caffeinated,
and absolutely convinced their wall is “pretty straight.” Then the first board goes up, and reality taps you on the
shoulder like, “Hi, I’m your house. I was built by humans. Good luck.”

A super common experience is realizing the first row takes the longest. Not because it’s hard, but because it’s
where you make a bunch of decisions you didn’t know you had to make: Do you center the seams? Do you start at the bottom or
the top? Should you remove the baseboard or tuck into it? Is the outlet exactly where it should be? (It never is.)
People often say once that first row is dead level, the rest of the wall feels like it “suddenly speeds up.”
That’s not magicthat’s alignment. Shiplap is basically a domino effect: set the first one right, and everything else behaves better.

Another frequent lesson: spacers save relationships. Whether it’s nickels, tile spacers, or scrap wood, consistent gaps
make the wall look intentional. DIYers often report that trying to “eyeball it” works for approximately three boards, and then the lines
start to wander like a distracted shopping cart. Using spacers feels slow at first, but it prevents that end-of-wall panic where you
realize the gaps gradually changed and now your last board doesn’t fit without creative math.

Many people also discover that painting is either the easiest part or the most annoying part, depending on timing.
Some swear by pre-painting boards because it keeps the grooves crisp and makes touch-ups small. Others prefer painting after install
because they want a uniform finish and fewer “handling marks.” The consistent theme: everyone is surprised by how much difference
a quality primer and a clean final coat make. Even budget materials can look high-end when the paint is smooth and the caulk lines are neat.
In other words, the finish is where the wall earns its diploma.

There’s also the “hidden winner” experience: the room feels different immediately. People often describe the space as
warmer, more finished, and more “designed,” even before furniture goes back. It’s the texture. Shiplap adds shadow and rhythm,
so the wall stops being a blank sheet of drywall and starts acting like a backdrop. That’s why so many DIYers end up doing a second wall later
not because they’re bored, but because the first one makes everything else look like it’s waiting its turn.

Finally, a reality check that shows up in almost every story: the mess is real. Cutting creates dust, and sanding creates
even more dust. The smart move people share is simple: set up a cutting station away from the room (garage, driveway, or a well-contained area),
use drop cloths, and clean as you go. It sounds unglamorous, but it’s the difference between “weekend project” and “why is there sawdust in my sock drawer?”

If you want the most “experienced DIYer” tip of all, it’s this: slow down for the parts that show. Take time on the first board,
the seams around outlets, and the finish work. Most people don’t regret spending an extra hour on those detailsbut they do regret rushing and spending
the next day trying to fix a wavy line with hope and paint.