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- Before You Drill Anything: Know Your LG TV (and Your Wall)
- Tools and Supplies Checklist
- Step-by-Step: Wall Mounting an LG TV (Standard VESA Method)
- Step 1: Prep your workspace (and your patience)
- Step 2: Remove the stand
- Step 3: Attach the mounting brackets to the back of the TV
- Step 4: Find and mark studs (this is the safety-critical part)
- Step 5: Position the wall plate and mark pilot holes
- Step 6: Drill pilot holes (and don’t hit surprise spaghetti)
- Step 7: Secure the wall plate
- Step 8: Plan power and cables before hanging the TV
- Step 9: Hang the TV (team lift encouraged)
- Step 10: Final adjustments
- Special Case: Wall Mounting an LG OLED G “Gallery” Series (Flush Look)
- Cable Management Without Regrets
- Troubleshooting: Common Problems (and How to Fix Them)
- Safety Check (Yes, Even if You’re Feeling Confident)
- When It’s Smart to Hire a Pro
- Bonus: Real-World Experiences Wall-Mounting an LG TV (500+ Words)
- Conclusion
Wall-mounting an LG TV is one of those home upgrades that feels wildly “adult” the moment you step back and admire it.
Your living room instantly looks cleaner, the floor has fewer cables auditioning to become ankle traps, and your TV stops
looking like it’s camping on a wobbly table from 2009.
The good news: most LG TVs mount like most modern TVsusing a standard VESA bolt pattern on the back.
The even better news: if you can find studs, use a level, and resist the urge to “eyeball it,” you can get a safe, professional-looking result.
This guide walks you through planning, tools, step-by-step installation, cable management, and the special quirks of LG’s “Gallery” style OLEDs.
Before You Drill Anything: Know Your LG TV (and Your Wall)
1) Confirm your model, size, weight, and VESA pattern
Start with the boring stuff that prevents expensive sadness later:
your exact LG model (example: OLED C-series, B-series, QNED, NanoCell, or the OLED G “Gallery” line),
the screen size, and the weight.
You’ll use these to choose a mount that’s actually rated for your TV.
Next: locate your TV’s VESA pattern, which is the spacing (in millimeters) between the mounting holes on the back.
You’ll see patterns like 200×200, 300×300, 400×200, 400×400, 600×400, and so on.
The pattern is usually listed in your LG manual/spec sheet and often printed on many universal wall mount boxes.
If your LG is an OLED G-series “Gallery” model, double-check whether it includes a dedicated flush wall mount.
Those installs can look extra sleekbut they may use model-specific brackets, templates, and positioning steps that differ from a generic VESA setup.
2) Pick the right wall mount style for how you actually watch TV
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Fixed / low-profile mount: Sits close to the wall and doesn’t move. Clean look, fewer parts, fewer regrets.
Great if your seating position is straight-on. - Tilting mount: Angles up/down a bithelpful if your TV is slightly above eye level (or if glare is your nemesis).
-
Full-motion mount: Extends and swivels. Great for corner installs or open floor plans, but adds complexity and leverage,
so installation must be extra solid. -
Flush “Gallery” mount: Designed for that “TV-as-art” look. Often used by LG’s Gallery-style OLEDs for a near-flush fit.
Gorgeous when done right. Unforgiving when done… creatively.
3) Choose the location and height (so your neck doesn’t file a complaint)
A common starting point is mounting the TV so the center of the screen is around seated eye level.
Many home setup guides reference a ballpark like ~42 inches from the floor to the screen center for typical living-room seating,
but that’s not a law of physicsjust a frequent “works for most people” baseline.
If you have a tall couch, recliners, or you watch TV like a shrimp curled under a blanket, adjust accordingly.
Quick method that works surprisingly well:
Sit where you normally watch TV, look straight ahead, and mark that eye-line height on the wall with painter’s tape.
Aim to put the screen center near that line.
Over a fireplace? Proceed with caution.
Fireplaces tend to push TVs too high (neck strain) and can add heatneither is ideal.
If that’s your only option, consider a mantel mount or a mount that can tilt down.
4) Identify your wall type and what’s behind it
The safest, most common setup is mounting into wood studs behind drywall.
Many homes have studs spaced about 16 inches on center, but don’t assumeverify.
If you have metal studs, plaster-and-lath, brick, or concrete,
your hardware and technique will change.
Also: walls hide surprises. Electrical wires, plumbing, and mysterious things past-you (or a previous homeowner) thought were a great idea.
If you’re unsure, slow down and confirm what you’re drilling into.
Tools and Supplies Checklist
Most wall-mount installs go smoothly when you have the right tools ready:
- Stud finder (plus a strong magnet as backup)
- Level (a longer level makes life easier)
- Measuring tape + pencil + painter’s tape
- Drill/driver + appropriate drill bits (wood or masonry)
- Socket wrench (often better than a drill for final tightening)
- Mounting kit with lag bolts/washers and TV bolts/spacers
- A soft blanket or foam pad (to protect the screen while you work)
- A helper (highly recommended for anything over “small and light”)
Step-by-Step: Wall Mounting an LG TV (Standard VESA Method)
Step 1: Prep your workspace (and your patience)
Unplug everything. Clear a large, soft surface (blanket on the floor or a sturdy table).
Lay the TV face-down gentlynever on a gritty surface that can scratch the panel.
If your LG TV is ultra-thin (especially OLED), handle it like it’s made of expensive feelings.
Step 2: Remove the stand
Most LG stands come off with a few screws.
Keep screws organized so you’re not playing “Which tiny metal thing goes where?” later.
Step 3: Attach the mounting brackets to the back of the TV
Your mount will include TV brackets/rails that bolt into the TV’s VESA holes.
Use the correct screw length and any included spacersespecially if the back of the TV isn’t perfectly flat.
Tighten firmly, but don’t over-torque like you’re assembling a spaceship.
Step 4: Find and mark studs (this is the safety-critical part)
Use your stud finder to locate studs and mark the centerline of each stud with pencil.
Verify by checking multiple heights or using a magnet to find drywall screws (which are often driven into studs).
If you’re missing a stud finder, techniques like magnets, outlet reference points, and careful knock-testing can helpbut verify before drilling.
Ideally, your wall plate will anchor into at least two studs for medium-to-large TVs, depending on the mount design and TV weight.
Some smaller TVs and certain mounts can use a single stud, but two is a safer default when the mount allows it.
Step 5: Position the wall plate and mark pilot holes
Hold the mount’s wall plate on the wall at your planned height.
Use a level (seriouslyuse it) and mark the pilot hole locations.
Many mounts include a paper drilling template; it can be a lifesaver for alignment.
Step 6: Drill pilot holes (and don’t hit surprise spaghetti)
Drill pilot holes into the stud centers at the marked locations.
Pilot hole size depends on your mount’s lag boltsfollow the mount manual.
If you feel the drill suddenly “give” into nothingness when you expected wood, stop and reassess.
Step 7: Secure the wall plate
Attach the wall plate using the provided lag bolts and washers (for wood studs),
or the correct masonry anchors (for brick/concrete).
Tighten until snug and securetypically “firm” rather than “I must defeat this bolt in combat.”
Step 8: Plan power and cables before hanging the TV
This is where many installs go from “clean” to “why is there a noodle waterfall under my TV?”
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Power: Most TV power cords are not rated for in-wall use. If you want a truly hidden look,
use a recessed in-wall power kit or install a recessed outlet behind the TV (often best handled by a pro if you’re not comfortable with electrical work). -
HDMI/ethernet: If running cables in-wall, use in-wall rated cable (CL2/CL3) and consider conduit for future upgrades.
Otherwise, use a paintable surface raceway for a neat, renter-friendly solution. -
Streaming devices: If you’re using a streaming stick or small box, decide whether it’ll live behind the TV,
in a cabinet, or mounted to the back with Velcro/straps designed for electronics.
Step 9: Hang the TV (team lift encouraged)
With a helper, lift the TV and hook the TV brackets onto the wall plate according to the mount’s design.
Many mounts have locking tabs or safety screwsengage them.
Then gently test stability by applying light pressure (not a full-body lean like it’s a trust fall exercise).
Step 10: Final adjustments
Level check again. Adjust tilt/swivel tension if your mount supports it.
Plug in cables, power on, and confirm your viewing angles.
If the TV is slightly off-level, many mounts allow small post-install leveling tweaksuse them.
Special Case: Wall Mounting an LG OLED G “Gallery” Series (Flush Look)
LG’s Gallery-style OLEDs are designed to sit very close to the wall, often with a dedicated wall mount system and positioning templates.
The result can look amazinglike a framed panel instead of a “rectangle floating in space.”
The tradeoff: placement matters more. You may need to align the mount using LG’s included guides/templates,
and cable routing becomes extra important because a flush mount leaves less room to hide chunky connectors.
Plan for right-angle HDMI adapters or slimmer cable options if clearance is tight.
If your model includes a specialized mount, follow the LG instructions for that exact TV series.
In other words: treat it less like “generic TV mounting” and more like “precision adult LEGO.”
Cable Management Without Regrets
Option A: Clean and simple (surface raceway)
A paintable cable raceway is the easiest way to hide cables without opening walls.
Mount it vertically below the TV to the nearest power outlet and cable source.
It’s neat, affordable, and doesn’t require patching drywall.
Option B: In-wall cable pass-through (low-voltage only)
If you want cables hidden inside the wall, use an in-wall rated pass-through kit and run only low-voltage cables through it
(HDMI, ethernet, optical). Keep power handled separately via a proper electrical solution.
Option C: The “it was built this way” look (recessed outlet behind the TV)
For the cleanest result, place a recessed outlet behind the TV and route cables thoughtfully.
This can be a DIY job for experienced homeowners, but many people hire a pro hereand honestly, that’s not a bad idea.
Troubleshooting: Common Problems (and How to Fix Them)
“My mount holes don’t line up with the studs.”
This is common. Solutions include:
using a mount with a wider wall plate, shifting the TV slightly left/right, or (in some cases) installing a plywood backer board anchored into studs,
then mounting the bracket onto the plywood.
Avoid relying on drywall anchors for a heavy TV unless the mount and anchors are specifically designed and rated for that use case.
“The TV isn’t level, and I swear I used a level.”
Many mounts allow micro-leveling after hanging. If yours does, adjust it.
If not, you may need to loosen the wall plate and re-levelor check whether your stud centers were marked accurately.
“The TV sits too far from the wall / too close to the wall.”
That’s usually a mount-style issue. Fixed mounts sit closer; full-motion mounts sit farther out even when pushed in.
If you want ultra-close, look for a low-profile mount designed for your VESA pattern and TV size.
“My HDMI cable doesn’t fit behind the TV.”
This happens a lot with flush installs. Use a slimmer HDMI connector, a certified right-angle adapter, or route cables before final seating.
Also consider a mount that provides a little extra clearance if your ports are tight.
Safety Check (Yes, Even if You’re Feeling Confident)
- Wall plate is anchored into studs (or correct masonry anchors), not just drywall.
- Mount is rated for your TV’s size and weight, with a comfortable safety margin.
- TV brackets are locked in place per the mount design.
- Cables aren’t pinched and power is handled safely.
- TV can’t be pulled forward easily by a curious kid, pet, or dramatic roommate.
When It’s Smart to Hire a Pro
DIY is greatuntil it isn’t. Consider professional installation if:
- Your LG TV is very large (think 77–83 inches) or unusually heavy.
- You have brick, concrete, metal studs, or plaster walls and aren’t sure about the right anchors.
- You want recessed power or in-wall cable routing and don’t want to risk code/safety issues.
- You’re mounting over a fireplace and need help with heat/height/structural considerations.
Bonus: Real-World Experiences Wall-Mounting an LG TV (500+ Words)
If you ask a dozen people about mounting a TV, you’ll get a dozen versions of the same story:
“It went great… after the part where it didn’t.” Here are the most common real-world lessons that show up again and againespecially with LG TVs,
including OLED models that are thin enough to make you handle them like a priceless painting.
Lesson #1: Stud finders are helpful, but verification is heroic.
People often trust the stud finder beep like it’s a sacred prophecy. Then the pilot hole hits… air.
The fix most DIYers learn: scan vertically, mark multiple points, and confirm with a magnet for drywall screws.
Once you find a line of screws, you’ve basically found the stud’s “breadcrumb trail.”
Lesson #2: The “perfect height” is whatever doesn’t hurt after a Netflix binge.
Lots of guides toss out a standard number, but real homes have real furniture. One person’s “ideal” is another person’s “why is my chiropractor rich now?”
The best trick people swear by is the tape-on-the-wall method:
outline the TV’s size with painter’s tape, sit down, and live with it for a day.
It looks a little silly, but it’s way less silly than remounting a 65-inch panel because you got ambitious.
Lesson #3: Full-motion mounts are awesome… and also tiny engineering projects.
Homeowners love the idea of swiveling the TV toward the kitchen or angling it away from glare.
Then they realize full-motion mounts add leverage, and leverage demands a rock-solid install.
People who have done it successfully almost always mention:
“I used a bigger mount,” “I hit two studs,” and “I tightened with a socket wrench, not just a drill.”
In other words: don’t cut corners when your mount is basically a metal arm doing push-ups with your TV.
Lesson #4: Cable planning is where “clean” installs are won.
Many DIYers mount first, then realize the power cord won’t reach, the HDMI connector sticks out too far,
or the raceway looks like an afterthought. The smart approach people learn is to stage everything:
hold the TV near the wall (without hanging it), test cable clearances, and decide where devices will live.
For LG OLED “Gallery” style setups, this matters even more because flush designs can be picky about connector thickness.
Lesson #5: The TV is lighter than you fear… until you lift it wrong.
LG TVsespecially OLEDscan be surprisingly light for their size, which tricks people into thinking they can solo-lift.
The problem isn’t just weight; it’s size, flexibility, and fragile edges.
The most common “I wish I knew” advice is simple: get a helper.
Two people make the hang smoother, protect the screen, and dramatically reduce the odds of turning your installation into a slow-motion disaster.
Lesson #6: The final 5% matters for that “pro” look.
DIYers who end up happiest tend to do a few finishing touches:
straighten the TV with micro-level adjustments (if the mount allows it), align the raceway perfectly vertical,
and hide slack cable with Velcro ties instead of stuffing it into a chaotic knot behind the screen.
It’s small stuff, but it’s the difference between “mounted” and “magazine photo.”
Conclusion
Mounting an LG TV is mostly about smart prep: confirm your VESA pattern and weight, choose the right mount style,
anchor into studs (or proper masonry), and plan cables before the TV goes on the wall.
Do that, and you’ll end up with a setup that looks sharp, feels secure, and doesn’t require a neck brace to enjoy movie night.